The Autumn-Winter shows have showcased retro, graphic and even quite reserved looks, and it’s pretty tough to sort through the dozens of collections on display in Paris. New York, Milan and London. But, Ykone has analysed, discussed and dissected the shows for you. Here are the major trends that we will be using and abusing next autumn.
1. Flat shoes
Were we not overjoyed to see that the fashion houses’ ready-to-wear collections were leaving behind 12cm stilettos and wedges for next autumn. Issey Miyake opts for ballerina shoes, Limi Feu for Doc Marten style boots, Anne Valérie Hash for brogues and Mulberry for low boots. And when they weren’t in flat shoes, the models in the Autumn-Winter 2010/2011 shoes wore small heels that are easy to wear, as in the Miu Miu, Isabel Marant and Louis Vuitton shows. There it is, this season’s life-changing trend!
2. Cosy Shapes
Comfort: the main issue for next winter. As well as flat shoes, designers are making our lives even more easy with practical and easy-to-wear items. Oversize mohair jumpers were Sonia Rykel’s favourite, while Givenchy went for winter-sport style pullovers, Marc Jacobs opted almost exclusively for knitwear, clean lines for Chloé’s trouser collection, woollen knee-socks and chunky knits for Vanessa Bruno, flowered capes by Kenzo…the designers are brimming with ideas for comfortable ensembles for next Winter.
3. Excessive accessories
Bowler hats and umbrellas by Hermès, Derek Lam hats, vintage Fendi handbags, Marithé + François Girbaud ushanka scarves, Dior top hats and long boots, Vuitton gloves and little handbags… the designers have come up with a huge range of accessories for next Autumn, including something for everyone.
4. Retro Style
Calf-length dresses from the ‘pre-war years’ by Manish Arora, long flared 50s skirts by Louis Vuitton, styles and prints from the 50s by Prada, long and flowing 60s-inspired outfits by Kenzo, 70s-style coloured coats by Paul & Joe, gold stripes by Balmain…this winter it has to be vintage.
5. Futuristic Cuts
When they’re not reminiscing, the designers are dreaming up completely new creations in very futuristic styles. From Balenciaga’s graphic cuts, mixed materials and colourful collection to the avant-garde style of Viktor & Rolf – certain labels have not hesitated to play the ‘futuristic’ card to seduce us. So watch out for graphic cuts next winter..!
Always and forever, leather items will be invited into our wardrobes for next winter. Whether it is just a little touch with a caramel trench coat like we saw at Hermès, or a whole leather-look that Barbara Bui designed, leather is definitely the material for next winter. For Balmain, the traditional leather trousers have transformed into red motorcycle pants! Céline has given a more balanced look, with leather and wool jackets. Karl Lagerfeld creates an original collection using PVC and latex but with the same result: the silhouettes appear provocative, rock and very sensual.
Next winter fur will be everywhere. Not only coats and jackets like we saw in the Chapurin, Michael Kors, Lanvin and Vivienne Westwood collections, but fur shoes, handbags and even trousers. Vanessa Bruno goes as far as creating fur detail on laced boots and the ends of her scarves. Kenzo covers its shopping bags and body warmers in fur, Karl Lagerfeld creates complete fur outfits (yeti-style) and Limi Feu opts for fur straps. Nothing to worry about for the animal rights activists though – most fashion houses have insisted that their fur is synthetic, like that of Chanel’s collection.
Having burst back onto the scene for Spring-Summer collections, lace trends persist into Autumn-Winter. A little touch or a complete ensemble, lace is definitely to be included in our wardrobes. Riccardo Tisci produced fine lace tops for the Givenchy collection, Paul & Joe created a lace strapless dress, and Rodarte opted for lace collars.
9. Long, light dresses
As seen in Tsumori Chisato, Vanessa Bruno and even Kenzo ‘s collections: long, light dresses in silk, crepe and satin. Burberry has created such dresses in khaki tones, to be worn in the middle of winter with a woollen gilet and fur boots!
A slightly strange trend for winter, but why not: the liberty of last summer will be back with a bang this autumn-winter. Chacarel crossover dresses with liberty prints, Kenzo’s floral print version, flowered capes by Tsumori Chisato this winter will see these romantic patterns dominate!
Last but not least, gold is undeniably THE trend for Autumn-Winter 2010. Long dresses, or tailored pants, Balmain has created complete ensembles in shiny gold materials. However, we would prefer to adopt this trend with a little caution, as not to come across too ‘bling bling.’